Camino South Istria - Chapters
Chapter one
Camino South Istria is a circular route, so you can start your Camino in any place. The real experience of this Istrian adventure can start in Vodnjan, a small town located only ten kilometres from Pula, the largest city in Istria. You should start your tour in the Church of St. Blaise, which keeps the world-famous collection of relics and the incredibly preserved holy bodies of the three saints.
On the Camino route, in Vodnjan, you should also visit the magnificent Bradamante Palace, the Town Palace, as well as the Church of St. James, which is said to be the first version of it built between the 11th and 13th centuries, and the churches of Our Lady of Carmel and St. Madonna Traverse.
The route then heads east, towards the Guran estate, where you'll find the remains of the Church of St. Simon, but also the early medieval settlement of Guran and a three-nave basilica. Regardless of the time of year, this tame Istrian region offers every camino traveller a unique encounter with nature in its pristine form. The trails go through a gentle landscape, accompanied by birds chirping and bees buzzing, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, through olive groves and cultivated vineyards, with dry stone walls and kažuni.
At one point, the well-marked trail follows a wide turn and goes across or along local roads towards the settlement of Gajana. On the way, you can visit a valuable site of a Roman villa and the Church of St. Cecilia, and after Gajana, try not to miss the Church of St. Ivan Turnina, on the eponymous site the mention of which dates back to the 13th century.
After a short break, the trail starts to descend gently towards the sea, and you'll feel the first gusts of wind that bring the scent of the sea. Going across the state road, the trail slowly descends, following the local road, all the way to the settlements of Baretini, Krnjaloža and Mandriol. Precisely from Mandriol, before it begins to descend sharply towards the coast, it offers a wonderful view of the Adriatic Sea, the indented Istrian coast and the incredible Brijuni Islands. So there, in Mandriol, it is an ideal time to take a break on a bench in the shade of an old tree and enjoy the view, before continuing the route all the way to the remains of the early Christian Church of St. Agnes and the very interesting archaeological outlines of the monastery of St. Andrew at the Betiga site, the destination of the first day of Camino and the 28 kilometres travelled.
Chapter two
The peace and quiet surrounding the locality of Saint Foška, the starting point of the second section of Camino South Istria, seem unreal. The locality is in the immediate vicinity of the village of Batvači. The settlement itself was densely populated from ancient times until the early Middle Ages, which can be seen from the numerous remains in the vicinity of the settlement. Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, many believers have always found their place of peace and prayer right here. Saint Foška is probably the most famous and most visited shrine in southern Istria, visited by pilgrims from all over the world every year.
After a needed break, we continue to follow the trail through the gentle green of the Istrian landscape all the way to the hidden gem of this part of the Camino – the kažun trail. These are traditional Istrian dry wall shelters resembling gnome huts and can be found in almost all parts of southern Istria. Here you should deviate a little from the trail and visit the site of St. Mihovil Banjolski, which is said to have been a thermal bath in Roman times, and today there are visible remains of a once larger medieval basilica complex. Returning to the trail, the route continues towards the village of Peroj, already at the entrance you can see the Church of St. Stephen, and in the very centre there's the Church of St. Spyridon, the patron saint of the village. Next to the church there is a recognizable bell tower with a dome, and behind it an interesting Orthodox cemetery.
With the sounds of the sea and a light breeze that always brings freshness, clears your thoughts and strengthens your soul, the Camino trail stretches along the coastline, offering a wonderful view of the coast, the nearby Brijuni Islands and the turquoise sea. We reach Fažana, a small fishing town that has retained its charm to this day. The Parish Church of St. Cosmas and Damian watches over the town, right on the waterfront, interestingly, it is a church situated at the lowest altitude in Istria - only one metre above sea level. A little further, almost hidden from view, is the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Carmel, while the Church of St. John the Apostle is situated within the local cemetery. A little outside the town, immersed in a gentle landscape, there is also the Church of St. Elisha. Returning to the trail that follows the promenade by the sea, the Camino leads all the way to Valbandon, another tame little village, where, within the Ministry of Interior's resort complex, there is a church dedicated to the Croatian Blessed and Martyr Miroslav Bulešić. It is a pilgrimage church for the Military Ordinariate in the Republic of Croatia.
The trail continues along the coast, then enters the forest and gently climbs towards Štinjan and the local Parish Church of St. Margaret. Štinjan is a suburb of Pula, the city that is the final destination of the Camino's second day. The largest city in Istria is rich in history and has played a significant role in the life and development of Istria since ancient times. In Pula, in one circular tour, you can start from the magnificent Arena and the nearby Church of St. Anton and go down to the waterfront and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. In the main square there is also the Temple of Augustus, and on one of the many city slopes you'll find a church with the monastery of St. Francis. Going back to the waterfront, the trail continues to the Chapel of St. Maria Formosa and the Arch of the Sergii, providing a dignified entry into the city through the "Golden Gate" at the end of the second day of the pilgrimage.
Chapter three
The third stage of the Camino South Istria begins in Stoja, a quiet part of Pula. The impressive Church of Our Lady of the Sea, built for the sailors of the Austro-Hungarian Navy, with alternating rows of white Istrian stone from Brijuni and reddish marble extracted from the Istrian quarries, is simply breathtaking. In its immediate vicinity there's the Naval Memorial Cemetery, which "tells" a large and important part of the history of the military port that Pula used to be. Descending again to the sea and largely following the contours of the coastline, we reach the settlement of Pješčana Uvala where, at almost the highest point on the hill, above the town, the unusual Church of St. Nicholas watches over the bay, built in the shape of a ship and dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and travellers. The church was ambiently lit by lighting designer and resident of Pješčana Uvala, Dean Skira, who in 2022 illuminated the nativity scene on the square of St. Peter in the Vatican. We continue through the Soline Forest Park - one of the last preserved forests of autochthonous holm oak (Quercus Ilex) in our area. On the right, there is a view of Fratarski Island and the rest of the small archipelago. We reach the village of Vinkuran, where, along the trail there is a Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, in front of which there is an altar and an arranged area with eight benches, the right place to take a break and rest, think in silence and pray. Just a hundred metres away, there is the oldest Istrian quarry, Cave Romane, where the Romans quarried blocks of stone for the construction of the Pula amphitheatre. Today, it is an impressive venue for numerous sports and music events, the acoustics of which tempt you to test your vocal skills.
The route continues through the almost untouched nature of the gentle Mediterranean landscape, which follows the travellers all the way to the very south of Istria. Following the coastline, we reach the village of Banjole, formerly a fishing village, which has retained its beauty to this day. In a short circular tour, a little off the trail, there is a church dedicated to the patron saint of sailors and fishermen, the Church of Our Lady of the Sea, and in the very centre of Banjole you'll find the Medulin Municipality History Park, a kind of open-air museum and gallery.
The Camino trail will show all its diversity precisely in the next section, while "climbing" to a hilly area that offers an unforgettable view of the endless blue sea on one side and the whole of Istria all the way up to the mountain Učka, on the other. This is where the Way of the Cross was put up, as the ideal place for meditation and reflection, as well as contrition and submission. In such a meditative state, one reaches the southernmost village of Istria - Premantura, the destination of the third day of Camino South Istria after 23 very intense and diverse kilometres.
Chapter four
Aware of the 27 kilometres or about seven hours of walking ahead of us, we start the fourth stage of Camino South Istria, in one of the most beautiful places in the world, in the very south of Istria. Accompanied by the sound of waves, fresh air from the sea and the scent of the pine forest, we walk along the "Mala Kolumbarica" beach on the southernmost tip of Istria and enjoy the view of the Porer lighthouse. We ascend to the nearby viewpoint on Kamenjak for an experience of timeless freedom that overlooks the open sea.
We have to move on, and the Camino trail takes us along the coast of Cape Kamenjak in a half circle and back towards Premantura, with the Church of St. Lawrence and the magnificent bell tower that watches over the entire area. In a light walk along the trail that gently descends towards the sea, we follow the road all the way to the bridge that crosses a bay and leads us into the village of Pomer. Then we reach the interesting Church of St. Flor, a 6th century bishop of Pula. With an occasional break, we continue towards Medulin, surrounded by peaceful and beautiful nature. Medulin reveals its attractions - Archaeological Park Vižula situated on the peninsula of the same name, then the nearby renovated Malin windmill, and in the very centre of the town the Church of Our Lady of Health and the Church of St. Agnes. Thanks to its two 33-metre high towers and its location on a hill, it is a unique church in Istria that is easily visible and recognizable and is an excellent landmark even from a distance.
This area in the very south of Istria is characterized by its mild Mediterranean climate, richly indented coast and numerous accommodation facilities. If we continue, we will reach the village of Ližnjan, with the Church of St. Martin, whose 30-metre bell tower watches over the entire village. Ližnjan's calm atmosphere offers refuge at the end of another day of the Camino route.
Chapter five
The area of Ližnjan is rich in natural and cultural beauties that we will discover in the day ahead of us. We start on the local road towards the sea, then we follow a gravel road and our destination is Kuje Bay, surfers' paradise on windy days. There is also a small eponymous Church of the Mother of God of Kuj, traditionally visited in June, in connection to which there is a legend of the arrival of the statue of the Virgin and Child from Kuj to Ližnjan. According to the legend, a young woman with a child sailed into Kuje Bay in an oyster and found a shepherd whom she told to go to the village and tell the villagers that the Mother of God had come to Kuje. Although the villagers did not believe the little shepherd at first, they eventually did when the church bells started ringing by themselves. Then they came to the bay and found a statue of the Mother of God with a child and later built a small church in her honour, and even today they celebrate her as the patroness of the village, the sea and fishermen.
We continue along the indented coast in an almost deserted area covered only by low vegetation. In this area shade is hard to come by on hot summer days, but it is also an ideal place to enjoy during the rest of the year. Numerous bays and crystal clear sea beckon for swimming and rest, but we continue our journey and in the wooded area known as Monte Madonna, with a heavy heart, we leave the coast behind. This interesting area with a rich past deserves a certain amount of time.
Beautiful nature is our faithful companion on the way to the village of Šišan, where we'll see the Church of the Holy Trinity. We learn that in the 17th century it was maintained by a brotherhood of flagellants whose members were known for whipping themselves until they bled in order to relive Christ's suffering and thus redeem themselves from sin.
Through almost untouched nature, in the shade of dense treetops, the trail continues to the remote village of Valtura. The time spent on this path allows us to think in silence because it is not disturbed by the sounds of everyday life. It's peaceful. Nature in its original form. We arrive in Valtura, more precisely, a little outside the village, on the very slopes of the Budava bay and the locality of Nesactium, the oldest town in Istria. Today, this is a valuable archaeological park that has not yet revealed all its secrets. We continue along the local road slightly uphill to the village of Muntić and the Church of St. Jerome. Next to the small church, we also find a large medieval cistern that used to supply this area with drinking water for centuries. It's time to continue the journey, following the local road, all the way to Marčana, our final destination of the fifth stage. We use the time before the break to visit the Church of St. Anton of Padua and in the centre of the village, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, which is located in the local cemetery. The old barn in the very centre of the town is also an interesting site worth visiting.
Chapter six
In the morning of the fifth stage of the Camino we reached the section between Marčana and Mutvoran. Although not many people live in Mutvoran today, this settlement had an extremely rich past, as can be seen from the remains of prehistoric and medieval castle walls, a lodge with a bestiary, as well as the Parish Church of St. Mary Magdalene. This tame but sparsely populated region offers endless moments of peace and time to enjoy the landscape and the silence. Following the local road, in such a serene mood, we move slowly towards the east of the Istrian peninsula, passing through the village of Cokuni and further, all the way to the village of Krnica, a place at the crossroads. Krnica is located on a hill above the sea, surrounded by forests, pastures and vineyards with a beautiful view of Kvarner. A 2.5-kilometre long road through a pine forest leads to the port and fishing village of the Port of Krnica with wooden boats, fishing nets and stone houses. Unspoiled nature, crystal clear sea and rocky beaches beckon, but the journey must continue.
After visiting the Church of St. Rocco and small churches dedicated to St. Joseph and St. Valentine, from Krnica we continue even further to the east, enjoying the unreal natural beauty. We deviate a little from the trail to visit the Church of St. Theodore, but soon we return to it and continue on our way to Rakalj. In this picturesque village with a rich past, you will discover an incredible wealth of historical and cultural events preserved in time. This is the birthplace of one of the most prolific Istrian writers, Mate Balota. We visit the nearby Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is located in the local cemetery.
We continue our journey down the meandering road towards the sea. These slopes of the Istrian coast offer the most spectacular views. The landscape, almost bare due to the unpredictable climate and strong winds, provides an incredible view of Kvarner and the endless blue sea. Walking through this rocky area, we are still aware of its pristine beauty, the struggle for every strand of grass and every stubborn bush in the "sea" of rocks. The "hard rock", as the local people would say, strengthened the mentality of the population of this region and made them persistent and hardworking. In this mood, we arrive at the site of the Church of St. Agnes, a small chapel dating back to the end of the 15th century, sheltered by trees, on a beautiful spot above Cape Mikula (St. Nicholas) with a view of the Raša Bay, which welcomes us, peaceful and serene in unreal and timeless silence. Right next to it are the ruins of the old castle in Stari Rakalj, and it is here that we end our 25-kilometre section on the sixth day of Camino South Istria.
Chapter seven
As we leave Rakalj behind, the beautiful Raša Bay and the breathtaking views of the blue Kvarner, we head inland, aware that we are entering the last stage of our Camino route in the south of Istria, which with its 32 kilometres is also the longest one. We are proud and grateful for this journey, but also humbled by what we saw, the beauties of nature that we were a part of. The trail leads us through beautiful, tame greenery towards Hreljići. The Church of St. Mary of Health is the right place for a short break, after which we continue our journey along the state road to Manjadvorci.
The terrain is still easy, accompanied by all the splendour of nature and places where past and present meet. We reach Filipana, where we find the Church of St. Philip and Jacob within the local cemetery. We continue left of the church along an asphalt road, which is soon replaced by a gravel road that passes through beautiful meadows and enters an unusually quiet forest. Kilometres go by, but while enjoying the walk in silence, you should pay attention to the signs, because after about half an hour of walking, you should turn right, although the wider road goes straight on and it is somehow natural to want to follow it. However, the sign is inexorable, you have to turn onto the trail to the right and walk for another kilometre to reach the village of Marčana. The trail does not enter the village itself, but bypasses it and continues through Tronovi Dvori all the way to Loborika. This place is known for the world famous cyclists, so it comes as no surprise that there is a House of Cycling, which is worth visiting. In the very centre, next to the school, there is the Church of St. Flora.
At the intersection in the centre, turn right from the main road and follow the forest trail toward Galižana. We go across the highway, the Istrian Y, and we follow it in part, but then we leave it behind as the trail gently leads us into new greenery all the way to our destination - Galižana. This small town boasts several sacred buildings, the most important of which is certainly the Church of St. Rocco, the patron saint of Galižana, and its 36-metre free-standing bell tower, which was recently restored. On the outskirts of the town, next to the cemetery, there is also the Basilica of St. Justus, and at the very end of our trail a small church awaits, peacefully and with dignity, according to many the oldest church in the area of Galižana – Concetta, the Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was built on the foundations of an ancient oil mill, but its importance is also indicated by the fact that the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand used to visit it frequently during his stay on the Brijuni Island. Concetta is just the place to write the last page of our Camino South Istria, a 193-kilometre long pilgrimage route.
